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289 dead in water and dont know why. HELP

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Tannerm
Junior Member


Joined: 29 Jul 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Keller, TX
289 dead in water and dont know why. HELP

Originally started as a unplugged vacuum line and a possible burnt exhaust valve in cylinder two. Two saturdays ago, as my fairlane was warming up, it just died. I am new to carbs and as it was warming up, i adjusted the idle to lower it and then ran inside for something, and came out to find it off. It would just turn over with no fire.

First off, its a "c" code 289 with edlebrock performer intake and holley 600cfm (4 bbl, electric choke) and manifold back exhaust. Remember me mentioning earlier about adjusting the carb? Well, the screw I used was NOT what I thought it was... It was the air/fuel mix screw on the passenger side of carb (one of two set screws.)... Im a dumb*** i know. Once i adjusted that screw, the idle dropped to around 800, so i thought i adjusted it correctly.

So, that next day we towed it to a buddys barn where we had air tools etc. We reset carb, correctly plugged vacuum line into the pcv valve, and restabbed the dizzy. Using the 1/4 turn air/fuel screw technique, we slowly adjusted it with turning of the key in between. No go. So, we re-stabbed dizzy and set it to TDC in hopes that the timing had jumped. We would crank crank crank and it would start for only a few seconds, backfire out the passenger pipe, and die. The mechanic friend of mine, while using compression tester, discovered excellent comp in all cylinders but one. He figured we had a burnt valve. Seeing how the backfiring was out the passenger side, it explained the 0psi compression out of cylinder 2.

We took off valve cover on pass side and discovered the heads had adjustable rockers. Correct me if im wrong but, do stock 289 heads have adjust rockers??? Anywho, the cylinder 2 exhaust rocker was overly tightened causing it to constantly be open. So he readjusted that rocker to the "0 degree" side of the cam. Reapplied cover and double checked timing. Still wont start... No backfiring but it will crank over, spit sputter, and still wouldnt work. We have replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil. Help me out. I apologise for the long post, but the more detail the better yall could possibly help.

P.s. There is gas in tank i saw that post coming, figure i nip it in the butt now. Also has a fairly new gas tank and pump. We know we're getting fuel due to the fact that too much cranking would flood the carb.

See sig for vehicle info.
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1967 Fairlane 500 post
"C" code 289 with Edelbrock Performer intak w/ Holley 600cfm 4 bbl carb; 3-on-the-tree (for now); Dual Flowmaster 40 series exhaust

Post Wed Sep 08, 2010 3:19 pm 
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punkur67
Junior Member


Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Posts: 28
Location: Lakeside, ca

You need air fuel and spark. If you have verified that you are getting fuel check to see if you are getting spark on all cylinders. Also pull the plugs and see if you have any burnt up, or any that are fouled more than others. I have seen it a few times but you can crack the ceramic on the plug and it will fire up inside the plug body and not at the tip and give you a dead cylinder.
For the carb set both screws at 1-1/2 turns out just to get it started and dial them in from there.

Post Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:46 pm 
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Kevin197
Junior Member


Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 23
Well....

Why did you remove and re-install the distributor? If you messed with the idle mixture on the carb, and the engine then died - that would be the first thing I'd have looked at before messing with the distributor. Your description of the backfire out the exhaust most likely indicates that you have the distributor installed wrong. Get the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and get the distrbutor installed properly, then proceed from there. My bet is that you have the distributor 180 degrees out of time.

Post Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:01 am 
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diegokid
Member


Joined: 28 Jan 2009
Posts: 93
dizzy

Don't know why the dizzy was removed, but is very easy to install one 180 degrees out of time. That WILL cause the backfiring, spitting and sputtering. Previous post was right on. If you have compression, fuel, air it should run.

I own a few fords but in actuality prefer GM stuff, I don't mind yawl griping at me. But something else that the small windsor engines are known for is jumping timing. The nylon lined teeth on the cam gear are prone to breaking off with miles/age. If you have compression this most likely isn't the case though.

As far as fords go I love my flane and the Cobra both. Wish I would have used an LS base instead of the FE for the Cobra though. Maybe next build. Wink

Post Sun Sep 12, 2010 7:48 am 
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punkur67
Junior Member


Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Posts: 28
Location: Lakeside, ca

Also check the roll pin on the dist. If you pop the cap and crank the motor the rotor will jump at random or not at all. I had this problem with my old 35w and a hp oil pump

Post Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:48 am 
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dave67fd
Newbie


Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Posts: 9

Sounds like you got a bit ahead of yourselves.
Once you get the dist. back in properly as stated and
Just to clarify a bit on setting the idle mixture screws. As you know there are two screws (one on each side) towards the bottom of the front metering block. Turn each one in until the screw is seated, then turn each one out 1.5-2 complete turns. Hook a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and start the car. One at a time, slowly turn the screws in until the vacuum starts to drop off, and then back the screw out a quarter turn and it should be good.
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1967 Fairlane 500 conv.
71 Bronco 302
2000 Mustang V6
2004 Escape Limited
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Post Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:36 pm 
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dave67fd
Newbie


Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Posts: 9

Sounds like you got a bit ahead of yourselves.
Once you get the dist. back in properly as stated and
Just to clarify a bit on setting the idle mixture screws. As you know there are two screws (one on each side) towards the bottom of the front metering block. Turn each one in until the screw is seated, then turn each one out 1.5-2 complete turns. Hook a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and start the car. One at a time, slowly turn the screws in until the vacuum starts to drop off, and then back the screw out a quarter turn and it should be good.
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1967 Fairlane 500 conv.
71 Bronco 302
2000 Mustang V6
2004 Escape Limited
2006 F250 Superduty

Post Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:37 pm 
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Scott66gta
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 286
Location: syracuse, NY
Put some gas down the carb...

If it fires and runs, than that will rule out ignition... If it doesn't fire, then the distributor, ballast resistor, ignition switch, etc are suspect. Did you try to hot wire it?

Post Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:55 am 
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63 fairlane 500
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Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Black Hawk SD
It's been a week

You asked for help a week ago and several people replied maybe you could let us know what is going on. People like to help and letting them know what worked or not goes a long way in keeping people responding to our requests.
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1963 Fairlane Sports Coupe
1963 Falcon Sprint Convertible
1969 Mustang Coupe

Post Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:47 pm 
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Tannerm
Junior Member


Joined: 29 Jul 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Keller, TX

My apologies gentlemen. I have been busy and totally spaced this wedsite... Anyways, I was able to restab dizzy, correctly set points gap, replace plugs, and get the correct vacuum line hooked up. It started and runs decent.

Only issue is i think i am either floadin it or something. When its idling and i rev it, it revs great. WHen im drivng and I accelerate, it bogs down and stumbles. Ive played with the set screws and it gets a bit better, but I am clueless on carbs.

Thanks to all that has helped me so far. Your help is very much appreciated.
_________________
-Current Ride-
1967 Fairlane 500 post
"C" code 289 with Edelbrock Performer intak w/ Holley 600cfm 4 bbl carb; 3-on-the-tree (for now); Dual Flowmaster 40 series exhaust

Post Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:35 pm 
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Arky
Member


Joined: 04 Jan 2009
Posts: 59
Location: Arkansas

Bogging is normally the power valve shot, that happened when it back fired. the power valve is in the carb.
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John Creager
Ozark Mountains Arkansas

Post Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:49 pm 
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1320lane
Senior Member


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 270
Location: Central Oklahoma
Re: dizzy

quote:
Originally posted by diegokid:
But something else that the small windsor engines are known for is jumping timing. The nylon lined teeth on the cam gear are prone to breaking off with miles/age. If you have compression this most likely isn't the case though.


289's don't have nylon cam gear teeth.
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Larry Hampton
______________________________________________

'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Post Wed Sep 29, 2010 10:16 am 
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Tannerm
Junior Member


Joined: 29 Jul 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Keller, TX

Ok. So outside of this bogging down issue, i was driving to my parents lastweekend it backfired a few times and power took a crap on me. Then it died. Wouldnt start. So i am confused. Is it a power valve in the carb or a bad dizzy??? One piece ifo i might add; when i replaced the dizzy wih a stock motorcraft dizzy (points) i also installed a tach. One wire goes to a power source, one goes to the dizzy's negative coil wire, and last wire is grounded into the body.
Point of me saying this is whenever id drive this car, the tach was always hopping around. Never accurate unless i was idling. This proof of a bad dizzy?
_________________
-Current Ride-
1967 Fairlane 500 post
"C" code 289 with Edelbrock Performer intak w/ Holley 600cfm 4 bbl carb; 3-on-the-tree (for now); Dual Flowmaster 40 series exhaust

Post Sun Oct 03, 2010 7:32 pm 
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