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The time now is Thu Mar 28, 2024 3:44 am |
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glassparman
Junior Member
Joined: 07 Apr 2009
Posts: 33
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Cutting front coil springs on '62 . . .
Has anyone cut their front coil springs? Just curious without looking, which end I can cut from.
It is hard to tell without pulling them out if they are Tangential or not.
Also, if I can cut, and I cut one turn, how much do you think it will drop the front end?
Last question, will it make it hard to allign? Not sure what happens to the geometry with one turn removed.
thanks in advance,
Michael
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Tue May 04, 2010 1:27 pm |
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Arky
Member
Joined: 04 Jan 2009
Posts: 59
Location: Arkansas |
One of the companies offer shorter springs for fairlanes. cannot remember which one. _________________ John Creager
Ozark Mountains Arkansas
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Thu May 06, 2010 9:12 pm |
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dapirate
Member
Joined: 25 May 2008
Posts: 69
Location: Atlanta |
also found this on this link
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/62-fairlane-1-1-5-lower-without-major-mods-109992.html
Eaton Detroit Spring can make you some. Mike is a great guy.
I do lots of 62-65 Fairlanes, almost a specialty, I guess. As you know their front and rear suspensions are unique from all other Fords. While you're there, do the Granada disc brake upgrade. It takes a little extra know how, if you need help PM me, I have done several in the past 25 years.
Cutting 1/2 coil when it is removed is fine. Cut with a hot torch is fine too. Only about 1/2 inch of the metal gets hot. Cut the bottom end.
NOTE..... when you cut an used 62-65 Fairlane coil, first you must mark the outside of the coil with tape (towards the ball joint) on each spring. When removed, the used spring will have a definite curvature to it. You must not reverse the curvature on installation, that means do the side to side swap.
After cutting the coil, you MUST install the left spring in the right side, and vice versa. The lower end must fit in the spring pocket correctly. The way that the upper A frame is made without a pivoting spring cradle pivot makes the switch MANDATORY.. if you don't switch you have a 50/50 chance of the spring breaking because it is curving the opposite direction. Tape must face outward, it is marking the spring curvature.
Also never lower the Fairlane more than if the lower control arm is parallel to the ground. If you do, bottoming will be horrible, and geometry is funky.
Go for the 1" (15/16) 70's Granada anti-roll bar for $ 20 from the junk yard. Makes a BIG difference.
Do NOT under any circumstances put POSITIVE CASTER on the front end alignment. If you do it will drive squirrley. Stick to the factory specs with 1/16 total toe-in with radial tires. _________________ 1962 Fairlane 500 4 Door w/'69 302 4V and C4
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Fri May 07, 2010 7:19 am |
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glassparman
Junior Member
Joined: 07 Apr 2009
Posts: 33
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dapirate,
Thanks for all the good info. I might try your cutting method as i'm fairly savy at fabrication.
I'm going to print this out and post it to my forehead to make sure I follow it to the T.
I really only want the front down about 1-2 inches.
Michael
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Fri May 07, 2010 8:58 am |
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dapirate
Member
Joined: 25 May 2008
Posts: 69
Location: Atlanta |
It's not my cutting method, I just found the link, lol
I cant cut anything, my wife cuts up my steak for me _________________ 1962 Fairlane 500 4 Door w/'69 302 4V and C4
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Fri May 07, 2010 12:26 pm |
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