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390 FE build up help

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optika1illushun
Senior Member


Joined: 10 Sep 2006
Posts: 125
Location: Coal Region, Pa
390 FE build up help

Ok since the trans i almost got wont work ill center my attention on the engine.

i would like to add an edlebrock performer RPM intake manifold, 1" carb spacer, Holley 4150 4 bbl carb, KN stub stack and a better cam.

little background on the engine. it originally came from a 67 Comet 4 door, its a 2 bbl variety with a Pertronix Ignitor 2, Accel cap/rotor/coil and FPA headers. the car has a built C6 trans with a stock stall converter and i think 3.00 rear gearing (could be even 2.74 i forget exactly).

first, i was thinking of a 700 CFM carb, but i have no idea what to get since it has a C6 trans. like mechanical or vacuum secondaries, and i dislike the throttle linkage that was factory like on our 66 fairlane GT. is there a better way around this? i seen companies like Lokar have a cable set up, which to me seems like a better idea.

next is what cam. i figure my rpm range is idle to 5500 rpm. not sure what to look for. i wouldnt mind a mild lope, but with the C6/stock stall and rear gearing i know id need to match them to that. i will probably be upping the gear ratio to around 3:55-3:89 this summer.

and lastly, the PO installed a piece of garbage Hurst ProMatic floor shifter. i absolutly hate it, i want a more tradtional shifter. the whole banging gears with an auto seems silly to me. i seen B&M this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-80775/?rtype=1
pretty straight forward, looks kidn of like a 4 speed shifter. or a gennie shifter.
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Post Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:11 am 
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RIFF RAFFORD
Junior Member


Joined: 14 Apr 2009
Posts: 38
Location: Dover Delaware

Opti...

I can offer my opinion (based on experiance), but it's really for you to decide what your overall "goal" is and what path you choose to achieve it. My opinions are based entirely on two words....Realistic Expectations.

My assumption is that you have an otherwise "stock" 2 barrell 390 (not rebuilt and "fresh") and you want to bump up the overall performance a bit. Nothing wrong with that, it CAN be done. Without a fresh rebuild and a VERY strong bottom end, I wouldn't reccomend a giant leap forward in performance upgrades, but you can definately get a little more out of it than what you have.

Your intake choice...not good. The RPM intake is a 1500-6500 rpm intake. You were right about sticking to the idle to 5500 rpm range for the cam, so you need an intake to complement that. Cam choice is up to you as long as you stay VERY close to the "Mild" grind. Overall performance will actually be BETTER by staying nice and mild with the cam considering the other aspects of the engine, trans, and car as a whole. The 1" spacer, K&N stack...waste of money in my opinion, they won't do anything for you considering your application. Carb, your choice. 700 Cfm is fine, I would likely choose a 650-700 cfm carb myself for your application. Vacume secondaries is my strong reccomendation. Throttle linkage...I am a HUGE fan of the stock linkage!...for the 66-69 Fairlanes & Torinos that is the "Best of the Best" as far as design goes. The bellcrank and 3 rods allows for ALOT of fine tune adjustment that can't be had with other setups. What is the most important is to be able to achieve a WOT condition with an acceptable amount of foot pedal travel. Remove the bellcrank and rods and install a another device and you will clearly see what I'm talking about. The stock setup is bulky and complicated looking I agree, but by far the best thing going as far as function is concerned....it's no fun planting the pedal HARD to the floor and only being able to achieve 3/4 throttle at the carb...I'd say stick with what you've got, no need to spend a bunch of $$ on gadgets and gizmos that you probably arent going to be happy with anyway.



Overall, (considering what you have already) I think If it were mine I would install a mild cam, a 4 BBL intake, a 650-700 CFM Carb and just leave it at that. Your Pertronix is well suited for the engine, and your exaust is Fine (actually overkill if anything)...no need to overdo it on the topside, your bottom end engine strength and Cyl heads limit you on how crazy you should really go on this, and how much $$ you should spend. A factory Ford cast iron intake (which can be had for about $75) will do EVERYTHING a $300 aftermarket intake will do for you in that RPM range (it just weighs more). Just something to consider.

If you were to beef up the bottom end of the engine with a fresh rebuild, and make changes to the heads (larger valves/port work) than you could take the next step up the performance ladder with a more aggressive cam grind and a larger carb.....It's REAL easy to read manufacturers Ad's that promice performance gains just by "bolting on" a part they sell. This often causes people to overbuild an engine that doesn't perform well or last too long. Every piece and part of an engine HAS to work well with and compliment every other part of the engine, It's good to have a "Plan" to begin with, and follow through with the plan to achieve the desired goal. Street engines and race engines are built for completely differant useage. I don't know what your goal is for this engine, I'm just commenting on what I think is reasonable and realistic for a good running street engine that you can get a bit more out of without breaking the bank and going overboard with parts that won't do much for you on an engine that is used in a street driven car......."Realistic Expectations" FWIW

Riff.
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66 GTA HARDTOP
66 GT CONV.
67 500 CONV Z CODE 4sp
67 RANCHERO XL 289 C4
68 TORINO GT CONV (INDY PACE CAR) 390 C6
69 COBRA FASTBACK "R" CODE C6
AND OTHERS...

Post Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:31 am 
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