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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
FE aluminum heads?
Guys,
When my father built the engine in my car, we wanted to keep it pretty original (original cast iron heads, intake, exhaust, etc). Well we went too high with the compression, he used 10.5-1 pistons, and it clacks terribly once the temp gets up on the car.
We have a 3 duece intake we've had put up for years, I originally wanted to put it on this engine but it's missing a few pieces of the linkage that we'll have to dig up on ebay, that's why we were hesitant. I want to put the intake on the car, but I also want to add aluminum heads, since I am told that will help with the clacking problem. But my father is completely against aluminum heads, he has always said that they are trouble waiting to happen, with head gasket troubles and warping.
This is not a daily driver, I may put 1000-1500 miles a year on the car. I'm not trying to make a race car either, but I'd like for it to open up if mashed on, too. Is there a high quality aluminum head that any of you would recommend? Does any additional work have to be done on aluminum heads before assembled and installed (seats installed? guide work?)
If we used aluminum heads, would I still be able to use my factory exhaust manifolds? I've considered going to headers, but I have brand new exhaust -front to back - under the car and I hate to chop it up for headers after just having it installed. _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Tue May 27, 2008 2:52 pm |
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Scott66gta
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 286
Location: syracuse, NY |
alum heads...
Aluminum heads used to be like that, years ago... modern ones, when installed right, will work fine. You can run 10.5:1 on pump premium... as for what you have now, check you distributor, and what advance you have when, and that the vacuum advance is connected to the correct source.
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Tue May 27, 2008 3:06 pm |
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Scott66gta
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 286
Location: syracuse, NY |
manifolds....
they will work, but they will hinder any gain you get from aluminum heads... try FPA headers, they fit nice... www.fordpowertrain.com
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Tue May 27, 2008 3:08 pm |
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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
Re: manifolds....
quote:
Originally posted by Scott66gta:
they will work, but they will hinder any gain you get from aluminum heads... try FPA headers, they fit nice... www.fordpowertrain.com
Will these headers go right in without any cutting on the car? _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Tue May 27, 2008 4:16 pm |
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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
Re: alum heads...
quote:
Originally posted by Scott66gta:
Aluminum heads used to be like that, years ago... modern ones, when installed right, will work fine. You can run 10.5:1 on pump premium... as for what you have now, check you distributor, and what advance you have when, and that the vacuum advance is connected to the correct source.
Thanks. Dad really is a sharp guy, but he's 65 years old and has been out of the racing loop since the 70's. He owns his own engine rebuilding business, but that consists of a daily diet of family sedan and pickup engines, not hot rods. I told him clearly that i wanted 9 or 9.5 pistons in the engine so it wouldn't have any problems with pump gas, but he still put 10.5's in it because "that's what we put in them in my day." Now I'm going through the "aluminum heads are nothing but trouble" battle with him now. _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Tue May 27, 2008 4:31 pm |
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GerryProctor
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 660
Location: San Antonio, Tx |
If his frame of reference for alloy heads is based in the market of 30-40 years ago, then his experience has some merit, but time didn't stand still. There are four manufacturers for FE alloy heads. Shelby (for 427 and very expensive), Dove (very spotty quality and availability), Blue Thunder (mostly the high end), and probably the best all-around is the Edelbrock.
Aftermarket alloy heads are at least an order of magnatude better in both manufacturing and combustion technology than what existed in the '60s and '70s.
In your case, the advanced combustion chambers will help in controlling pre-ignition and detonation with its better squish characteristics. This means better mixture turbulence which means you don't need to run as much spark advance to make power.
With the Edelbrock, you'll also gain substantially with its Medium Riser ports.
Yes, you can use factory iron exhaust manifolds but the heads are drilled for the CJ 16-bolt pattern instead of the unibody 14-bolt pattern. This means that there will be no place for the center port bolt holes unless you have the flange drilled and helicoiled for them. Not a very tough or expensive job for a machine shop. But the FPA shorty headers are a much better option since they are a good fit and will take advantage of the head's better breathing ability.
As to your combination as it sits...tuning may help with your pinging. Check your distributor to ensure that the centrifugal and vacuum advance is operating properly. Most of the problems with running high compression in an older engine is with tip-in ping. This is where you are at cruising speed and you apply some throttle. You can address some of this by using a vacuum advance can that contributes less vacuum advance. You can also tune the centrifugal advance to come in later in the rpm range. And don't overlook sparkplug heat range. A cooler plug may be in order. Of course, there is also the issue of total ignition timing. It may be a matter of taking a few degrees out of the initial timing. You also can't overlook your fuel curve in the carb. It's possible by addressing all of your ignition and fuel tuning options to eliminate your problem.
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Wed May 28, 2008 6:12 am |
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scotta66gt
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 396
Location: Arlington VA |
Adjustable vacuum advance...
Howdy. Another piece of the puzzle I'm using is one of the adjustable vacuum advances, it gives you another thing to play with. Real easy to do it on the road or wherever, just pull the advance hose and stick an allen wrench in it. It helped me to fine tune things. FWIW, Scott
p.s. tried to find a link, I think it's an Accel part, or maybe Crane. Cheap and easy. _________________ 66 Fairlane GT
Daily Driver / Survivor
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Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:05 pm |
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1320lane
Senior Member
Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 270
Location: Central Oklahoma |
I think the Shelby heads are actually cast at Edelbrock. I agreee that going Edelbrock would be the way to go.
Someone make FE shorties that use a ball/socket collector that might make cutting your new exhaust less painful. _________________ Larry Hampton
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'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.
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Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:07 am |
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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
Thanks for the info guys, I've pretty much made up my mind that I'm going with the Edelbrock heads and the shorties now. I'll probably just get the assembled Edelbrocks. _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Wed Jun 04, 2008 2:03 pm |
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GerryProctor
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 660
Location: San Antonio, Tx |
As far as tuning, you can do much better than that, Scott. All vacuum advance cans have in and out as well as total advance points. The trick is to review the specs for your can and make an appraisal of what replacement can will put you in the direction you need to go. Most repair manuals will list the specs for the many, many cans available. Once you know where you are and where you think it will help, head down to NAPA and get that can. In most cases, a can that provides less advance under high vacuum will help tip-in ping. If you have ping that persists beyond tip in but subsides under heavier loads, then an earlier out point is more helpful. Adjusting only the total won't solve all your problems. Also, put a hex key in the end of a Ford vacuum can and tell me what you find.
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Wed Jun 11, 2008 6:03 am |
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