Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Location: Arlington VA
| Modifications I've done
Noticed this folder was empty so what the hey! Here’s what I’ve done to my 66 Fairlane GT with a 390 and 3 on the floor and my feelings about the mods:
1. Global West MNR-74 upper a-arms with the Shelby Drop for a 67-73 Mustang, absolutely great, probably the BEST mod I’ve done.
2. Subframe connectors from Crites Restoration, about $100 plus welding, fantastic, the doors shut better, really a great mod.
3. Porterfield R4S brake shoes. About the best you’re gonna do with drum brakes, great shoes. A little heat helps, but perfectly decent when cold.
4. Blueprinted oil pump and heavy duty drive shaft from Precision Oil Pumps, really a necessity.
5. Rocker shaft end stands and studs from Precision Oil Pumps. Another necessity for any high performance use.
6. Comp 270H K-kit. Great is all I can say, pretty mild actually.
7. Performer RPM intake. This is a gimme, no one is gonna argue with this choice. Seems the old Streetmaster may be a little better at higher RPM.
8. Holley Street Avenger 670 – yeah, it’s Holley and needs some tuning, but it’s all there and fresh.
9. Crites aluminum radiator – works absolutely great, but not a real clean fit, and looks pretty different. If I was going to do it again I’d go with Mark Artis at Texas Thunder Performance.
10. Distributor from Faron Rhoades, another gimme. Total Performance Ent. of Pa, RR#2 Box 220B, Selinsgrove Pa 17870. Shop Phone - 570-743-8184 (may have changed) Mon-Fri 10-6 EST.
11. Pertronix ignition, and coil, no quibble there, a great mod. Make sure it’s wired straight up to a switched 12V, not thru the stock resistor wire off the ignition switch.
12. Adjustable vacuum advance from Crane, PN 99606-1, no lookin’ back!
13. Ford Duraspark wide cap conversion kit with Ford Racing Small Block - 302/351 wires. The wide cap has male spark plug type terminals instead of the narrow cap female sockets, so you need to change the wires too at the same time. Simple snap in, Ford Racing part, maybe $30.
14. Simpson 29034BK (62" x 3") two point pull down seatbelts: Definitely a good one. Yes, two pointers are not nearly as good as three, but if you’re gonna stay with 2 point at least make it safe in terms of webbing strength. From Summit, about $70 each.
15. Rear Shocks: Bilstein Heavy Duty rear shocks, No. 460293, listed for Volvo 122s sedan (NOT wagon). The top bushings are not right so you need to reuse your old ones, but the Bilstein HD shocks are fantastic. About $90 each, great for all that unsprung 9” rear weight!
16. Front Shocks: went with KYB Gas-a-Just KG-4505, kinda jumpy, but OK with a big ole’ FE. I’d like to upgrade to QA1 Stocker Star TC1542P or the Stocker Star Drag RC1542P, both are single adjustable.
17. Heavy duty Edelbrock tie rod sleeves, PN 5252, replaces Moog ES2004. Can’t tell much difference, but for $35 the pair sure beats a 40 year old piece of bent up sheet metal!
18. Carter M6905 Fuel Pump: Another gimme, this is the one to get for a moderate performance street application. About $90
19. Flaming River FR1002 battery disconnect. The ones that have a turn knob suck, don’t use ‘em! I mounted it on the inside of the fender by the battery, great anti-theft, you can bring the key with you if you want.
20. Dual throttle control spring, I used Summit G1320. Basic safety.
21. Monte Carlo Bar, Fabricated, for 66-67 Fairlane. This is the one that goes across the engine bay over the distributor. Cheap on ebay, $40 or so. Mine was a little short so I shimmed it with some plastic stock. Given the ‘lane is a very early unibody I figger any stiffening has gotta be good, although the Mustangs needed reinforcements more.
22. “Cocktail shaker” from 66/67 convertible mounted behind the right rear spring, holes already drilled. A 30 pound weight right where you need it if you have an open rear end! May be hard to find, mine was originally from the driver’s side, but it mounts fine on the passenger side. Helps those 60’ times.
23. Modern halogen headlights, high beams are H5001 and low beams are H5006. Absolutely necessary.
24. Not done yet, but the Summit Racing SUM-8900034 headlight wiring harness has all the plugs and relays you need to run the headlights off the battery, should result in bright lights and longer ignition switch life due to reduced current.
25. Another one I haven’t done yet, but the Prothane 6-1605 poly transmission mount will go in when I get the clutch changed out.
66 Fairlane GT
Daily Driver / Survivor