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The time now is Thu Mar 28, 2024 9:04 am |
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odd ball
Senior Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 100
Location: San Francisco, CA |
if strength is more important than looks, I would take a piece of angle iron, heat it, bend it to the shape of that curve, then weld it in. _________________ ----------------------------------------
69 Fairlane 500, 351w, 2200 stall C-4, 9" with 3.50 and trac-lock
Last edited by odd ball on Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Mon Mar 20, 2006 3:45 pm |
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oldracer
Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 77
Location: Wilhoit Az. |
fix
I would remove as much bad metal as possible and then take some metal with about the same thickness and form it to the approx. shape and weld it in.
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Mon Mar 20, 2006 4:32 pm |
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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
Re: fix
quote:
Originally posted by oldracer:
I would remove as much bad metal as possible and then take some metal with about the same thickness and form it to the approx. shape and weld it in.
only thing is that you have a 90 degree angle there, plus going around a curve too. _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:31 pm |
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jemmons
Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 79
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Yet another brilliant idea.
First of all I would probably consider making this in two pieces. The wheel house section will obviously curve but still needs to do a 90 to fit into the trunk floor section. Remove the rot keep the cut lines straight and clean. Then fill in the void, so to speak. Make the curved section first, then make the trunk floor section. Weld the two together at the required 90. Small spot welds work great. Do a few then let it cool, then do some more. You will eventually get a pretty nice seam, be patient. I weld these types of seams from the back side, it looks neater and is easier to grind smooth. A jig saw and bi-metal blade will cut your steel without any issues, I use mine all the time for steel. If you leave the lower section a little wide you can contour with a grinder all the way to the natural curve of the wheel house. If you want to come by I will be more than happy to show you what I mean. Lakeland, TN Good luck. One other point, you can use cardboard to get an idea of how the thing should go together before cutting $$$ steel.
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Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:45 pm |
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KD7CSY
Junior Member
Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 11
Location: Sublimity, Oregon |
Re: fix
quote:
Originally posted by oldracer:
I would remove as much bad metal as possible and then take some metal with about the same thickness and form it to the approx. shape and weld it in.
Strip the entire seam line around the weld, remove all the factory gew. Treat it with a anti rust agent top AND BOTTOM, Tack weld the patch on the bottom side. Use the patch that has been welded to the back side as a backing surface to apply duraglass, sand & paint.
Make sure you use duraglass and not a surface filler like bondo. Duraglass will not absorb moisture. _________________ '66 500 Club Coupe
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Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:00 pm |
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fairjohn
Member
Joined: 20 Mar 2006
Posts: 82
Location: Molalla.Or |
Ya, what jemmons said
I would also do it like "jemmons" suggested and do it in two pieces. One piece on the floor and one piece on the wheel well joined together. It wont look bad if you take your time and weld in stages so you dont warp it. _________________ '68 Fairlane 500 sportroof, 428CJ, close ratio toploader, 9" detroit locker, 31 spline axles, 3.50 gears.
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Wed Mar 22, 2006 10:14 am |
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jswordy
Junior Member
Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 19
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Second vote for jemmons method, from a man who is thankful he does not have that problem.
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Wed Mar 22, 2006 4:36 pm |
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Fair 67
Senior Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 252
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How did you make out
SD44
Did you try and fix this yet and if so how did you make out?
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Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:54 pm |
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purf_man
Senior Member
Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 151
Location: Dayton TN |
you could also build a hammer form from some MDF and make it from one piece. Things like this is why I parked my car to learn proper sheetmetal forming (hammer, dollies, beater bag, and soon to be english wheel)
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Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:47 pm |
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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
i cut two pieces from a junk fender. first piece was about 1" wide and 16" long, like a stirring stick. second piece i cut rectangle, about 5" wide and 16". i put the thin strip against the wheelwell and tapped it lightly with a body hammer until it curved to match the wheelwell. i then placed it on top of the rectangle piece, and used a marker to show where i needed to cut. i then took my hand nibblers and cut the rectangle piece out where the thin strip will fit. i then carefully spotwelded them together, leapfrogging around. i then put the finished patch against the trunk boxing/wheelwell and welded. afterwards i fiberglassed the whole area around the welds to seal.
the metal work was pretty fun, didn't expect that. _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:34 pm |
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Fair 67
Senior Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 252
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Fiberglass
How hard is the fiberglass to sand smooth. What is it called I may need some.
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Wed Apr 26, 2006 5:06 pm |
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oldracer
Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 77
Location: Wilhoit Az. |
Fiberglass
When working with fiberglass,try to get it as smooth as possible from the start,don't pile it on too thick.
An orbital sander or small disk grinder makes it fairly easy.
"Old"
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Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:30 pm |
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SD44
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi |
fiberglass is alittle harder to sand than bondo. i honestly didn't put alot of time into smoothing it perfect, i ground it down carefully with a disc on my drill fairly smooth and let it be. the trunk matt will cover the rest. _________________ NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion
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Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:41 pm |
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Fair 67
Senior Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 252
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Thanks to both of you..
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Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:45 pm |
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