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swapping a 260ci

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66fair
Newbie


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 6
swapping a 260ci

Hey,
A few weeks ago on Woody's page, someone ( thinks it was Bkin??) was talkin about swappin the motor in a 63 (221, 260) for a 68 302 and a c4. Lo and behold, thats exactly what I'm planning to do. I've got pretty much everything ready to go and was wondering if their was gonna be any surprises. Already fabricated new motor mounts because the bolt pattern was off an inch or so, but they were discussing the drive shaft yoke and the overall length of the driveshaft. I figure the yoke will have to be changed because of the spline count, but does the drive shaft remain or does it have to be shortened? Also, what about the shift linkage? How did you get the extra forward gear to work on the column shift?
Any other surprises await?
Thanks
66fair

Post Sat Mar 18, 2006 9:51 pm 
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compact
Senior Member


Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 118
Location: south australia

*BUMP*

am in the process of doing this myself and am interested to know if i need to do something to the tailshaft so i can organize it now rather than later.

do realise i need to change yoke..and have got one Very Happy

Post Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:02 am 
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Bkin
Senior Member


Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 109
Location: Illinois
Swap

My 302 is in and running. Issues that came up during assembly:
1. Mount for tranny dropped back approx. 2in for FMX.
2. Old timing cover too shallow for timing set. Solution...lathe 1/8in from eccentric for fuel pump and good fit.
3. Massive vacuum leak through Brake Booster. (Replaced with Reman Booster from Cardone)
4. Speedometer off due to Drive Gear..Waiting to replace.
5. Shift linkage left with only being able to shift down to 2nd. So I have P-R-N-D-2.
6. I got lucky with the drive shaft it was the right length, although had to get creative with the the universal joint at the yolk. NAPA came through with the right part.
7. Had to purchase kickdown cable from Lokar. Small mods...works well!
8. Had to use the driver side exhaust manifold from the 221 because of the way the duals lined up by the power steering unit.
9. I was truley upset when I had to go with an FMX. But after install and fitment went well I found after driving the car that the owner of the trans before me had been kind enough to rebuild with a shift kit. What a kick.
10. tranny linkage was made from threaded rod and a Hime Joint.

I used a 2V intake system because this car is used by my kids to drive to school and work/weekends. I have a '70s D series carb and a 4 Barrel intake from a '66 that is sitting on my bench calling me everyday. I don't see any large problems with that exchange after the kids are through school.

Cost was below $1000. I still have to explain to my wife that that is still cheaper than buying another car.
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1963 Fairlane 500 4 Door w/'68 J Code 302 4V and FMX

Post Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:27 pm 
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66fair
Newbie


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 6

Why did you go with an FMX instead of a C4? Was it a matter of choice or did the C4 not fit ?
thanks

Post Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:33 am 
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66fair
Newbie


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 6

Why did you go with an FMX instead of a C4? Was it a matter of choice or did the C4 not fit ?
thanks

Post Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:33 am 
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Bkin
Senior Member


Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 109
Location: Illinois
FMX

Had both trannys in garage when the swap started. I had been collecting parts for 3-4 years. When I purchased the '68 donor Galaxie, it came with the FMX the C4 was from another car. When we went to put the C4 in it became apparant that needed a rebuild and the FMX was ready to go.
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1963 Fairlane 500 4 Door w/'68 J Code 302 4V and FMX

Post Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:05 am 
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compact
Senior Member


Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 118
Location: south australia

hey mate, what was this about the timing cover.....dont quite understand

i am putting my 302 in and keeping the old rocker covers,air cleaner etc

the rockers dont have a fill point so was going to instal the 260 timing cover and eventhinking about using the 260 fuel pump(with fuel filter on bottom).

thanks for your info mate Smile

Post Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:39 am 
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Bkin
Senior Member


Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 109
Location: Illinois
Timing Cover

The sprockets for the new timing set were thicker than the stock ones in 1968.
If you look at the location of the eccentric (fuel pump actuating cam) on the top timing sprocket, you can see that if the timing set is thicker than the stock set (as it was on my engine) the fuel pump actuating cam will rub on the inside of the timing cover when assembled. The easy fix was to take 1/8 inch off the fuel pump cam. A couple of dry fits were used so not to take too much off. It left plenty of surface for the fuel pump rod to ride the cam. If your new timing set is the same dimensions as the stock set you won't have this problem. I also re-used the bottom filter fuel pump from the 221 as well as the air cleaner. The valve covers were swapped for the M/T aluminum ones because I think they look cool.
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1963 Fairlane 500 4 Door w/'68 J Code 302 4V and FMX

Post Sun Apr 23, 2006 9:18 pm 
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compact
Senior Member


Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 118
Location: south australia

thanks for the explanation mate....ill check it as i do it

Post Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:05 am 
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