Using seats out of something like a late model mustang convertible where the shoulder part of the belt is attached to the seat rather than the roof would be a good start, as it wouldn't detract from the looks of the car or create a hazard for those in the back if they have to get out in the case of an emergency. How you would mount the belt on the floor, would be the biggest hassle with having to find a strong enough anchorage point to restrain you in case of an accident.
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66 hardtop downunder

I'm running manual discs on my 64 ,just have to push harder, Also seat belts, It is illegal to use 5 point harnesses (Simpson or other makes) up here ,even though they only have a two year life (NHRA),this is because they are not DOT. approved. I guess they prefer 42 year old ,sun rotted belts. dave s

My first Fairlane, in 1969, was a 68 hardtop and it had front disc/rear drums. Seemed to stop pretty well. When I got my 67, six years ago, I was mildly surprised to find that it had drums all the way around. And, it was non-power. A short ride and a quick test stop and I went to the phones immediately. Decided to go for all four corners and the dual master cylinder. The SSBC kits bolted right up. I replaced all the lines but didn't opt for power assist. There is some heavy pedal effort but this car comes to a stop in a hurry. This was my very first modification.
Martin Farber

Doing the same here on the 70 Fairlane, 4whl drums took some serious foot pressure, bought a set of adapter plates to use existing spindles for both front and rear disk brake conversion using modern disks/calipers and m/c,will will keep posted as project moves along, also going to use late model mustang/cougar/lincoln leather buckets and rear seat and seatbelts, Not an original restorer type of hobbiest, more like old school hotrod builder, have all underhood A/C components (302auto) that I'll be removing if anyone interested in buying/swapping for (not familiar with swapable interchage with the older ones). Have alot of little dash pieces, steering/suspension parts, that may be usuable that came from same car that were replaced only to have a new part during a partial restoration that was done by previous owner, some original type of peices, like voltage reg, other misc,just ask. Rich.....hmmmm feel like an outcast almost with a 70 model

i have a question about drum setup. my 66 has the factory setup, fruitjar master cylinder and original booster. i replaced everything new on the brakes: lines, hoses, hardware kits, wheel cylinders, shoes, and the booster and MC are rebuilt. the brakes work fine under normal driving conditions, BUT THEY WILL NOT LOCK UP. i can't get the wheels to slide for nothing. this worries me in case i need to lock up to stop in an emergency. is this normal for drum brakes?
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NMCB 28 Seabee Battalion

First of all, locking up your brakes is misleading, you do not stop faster but slower under lock up, whenever you brake traction when stopping you accelerate as in a skid, picture lock up on ice, same thing only more severe, thats why they designed anti-lock brakes to prevent this, as far as your brakes not locking, the older designs didn't provide as much pressure to the wheels as in modern brakes plus rely on your foot pressure and weight of vehicle stopping is another factor. Rich

If you go to www.groundsky.co.nz/police1.htm you can see a picture of what leadfoot25 is talking about, the only difference is that this occured on a dry road. This vechile is a modern holden built within the last 3 yrs. I am not sure if they come from the factory with anti-lock brakes as it is a base line model.
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66 hardtop downunder

I had front disc/rear drum on my 62 with power & the car stopped well but there was no feel to the pedal.
Now, running 4-wheel disc & manual master car stops just as well, if not better but you feel more in contact with the road, & i can lock em up if i really stomp em, but not something you want to do.
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roger powell