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200 C.I. six cylinder

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ponyboy
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 32
Location: Chandler, AZ
200 C.I. six cylinder

I have a '64 Fairlane with the 200 C.I. six cylinder, which is just about worn out. I'm trying to decide between rebuilding this engine, or just replacing it with a rebuilt engine, I found lots of places that have the '65 and up 200 C.I. engine, but nobody has the '64. Is there a difference between the '64 and '65 engines, and will the '65 engine fit in the '64 Fairlane? I have the 2 speed automatic transmission. Thanks. Jerry.

Post Tue Feb 06, 2007 12:25 am 
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oldracer
Member


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 77
Location: Wilhoit Az.

Everything should be the same!

Post Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:47 am 
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ponyboy
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 32
Location: Chandler, AZ

I would think they would be the same. I was given part numbers AGFOR200LB5, and DF28 by a couple of engine rebuilders for the '65 engine. Does anybody recognize these numbers? Thanks. Jerry.

Post Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:57 pm 
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SD44
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi

my first car was a 66 4-door with a 200. i bet i put 2 or 3 exhaust manifolds on it, they kept breaking in the middle. anyone know of a trick to keep this from happening?
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Post Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:42 pm 
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ponyboy
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 32
Location: Chandler, AZ

Mine had a hairline crack in the middle. I had it welded. When I bought the car, the exhaust had leaks everywhere. I removed the exhaust manifold, cleaned all the carbon off the manifold and head, and reinstalled it with a new gasket and all new grade 8 bolts. I also replaced the flange gasket between the manifold and the exhaust header pipe. That stopped the leaks. One thing I noticed, is there is a bracket bolted to the block, that the header pipe is supposed to attach to with a U bolt, and my U bolt was missing. I installed a new one. I thought it might have been vibration that caused the crack, since an inline 6 manifold is fairly long, and it was cracked at the top, right in the middle, right above where the header pipe attaches to the bottom of the manifold. That has been over 6 months ago, and the weld seems to be holding. I wish you could get a steel header for this engine, but so far, I haven't been able to find anything. For right now, I cut the pipe off just about under the front seat, clamped on a glasspack, used a rubber hanger on it, and ran a pipe out the side under the door. Jerry.

Post Thu Feb 08, 2007 8:11 pm 
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purf_man
Senior Member


Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 151
Location: Dayton TN

I never cracked on on my 170 (put 30k on it in 4 years)

swapped in a 200 and put a blow through turbo on it and a 5 speed trans and love it.

the 64 200 is an oddball motor. best to upgrade to the 65 up block (later fox chassis cars had a low mount starter which will not bolt up to the early trans)

in 67 they drilled a second set of holes for the bellhousing for the larger 3.03 transmission. so all 67 to 80/81 blocks have both patterns.

the later motors (65 up) also use a larger distributor shaft and oil pump drive. these motors also came with the better distributors in them which won't fit an early motor without mods.

also later motors had a larger "intake" on them and bigger valves.

you can get a nice sounding dual outlet header still for them.

Post Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:54 pm 
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ponyboy
Junior Member


Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 32
Location: Chandler, AZ

Thanks for the information. I'm still a little confused. It seems the '64 was an oddball year for Fairlanes. If I go with a '65 up longblock, will it bolt up to the 2 speed Ford-O-Matic (not Cruise-O-Matic) transmission, what parts can I transfer over from the '64 engine, and what parts will I have to replace besides the distributer? Will there be problems with the starter on a pre '78 block? Since the intake manifold is part of the head, will the same carburetor from the '64 fit later engines? Thanks. Jerry.

Post Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:44 pm 
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purf_man
Senior Member


Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 151
Location: Dayton TN

everything behind the block will work back. you cna use the same flywheel and starter as before as long as you are not changing to a different transmission (like to a C4)

a good check of the motor is to see how many freeze plugs are on the passenger side of the block (3 or 5)

for the distributor it is best to replace it. the early small shaft ones are vaccum advance only. the 67? and up distributors are all dual advance and the wonderful smog era cars have electronic ignitions (duraspark I and II )

as far as the carb goes the bolt spacing on the head is slightly larger on teh newer heads. you could upgrade to a bigger carb to match this or use your existing carb spacer and elongate the holes so it will bolt to the larger head opening. this will prob be the easiest way to go.

on my 62 (170 motor) engine wise I ran a 65 head (the same bolt pattern as the old 170 for the carb) and everything else I jsut transfered over besides the distributor. the only real problem was there is an extra boss on teh side of the newer blocks that interfers with the stock fuel filter canister (on the 1962 motor at least) a grinder took care of this problem though.

do you have an alternator or a generator? my 170 had a gen on it and my front timing cover didn't have the mounting boss for an ALT on it. I just ended up modding the bracket (this was before I even had a 200)

the only big difference between an early 200 block and a late model high mount (those 78 blocks seem common as I have 3 of them around) is the deletion of the road draft tube hole and the addition of a couple extra bolt bosses. the 67 up blocks are all drilled dual pattern for the bells so you can run an early bell stll or upgrade to a later bell trans (I think this really only applies to manual transmission cars though)

headwise the later heads have a larger intake volume and bigger valves so will flow better. the only real installation difference is the EGR port (you can use a cleveland or modified fuel pump block off....I forget which one) and the carb mounting.

Currently I am running a bastard motor.....78 block and a 65 head. keeps things simple. let me know if you need any parts as I have a couple motors and some spares around.

Post Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:40 pm 
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SD44
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 562
Location: Mississippi

all 200's came with 5 freeze plugs, right?


the way i've always identified a 170 from a 200 was the 170's having 3 freeze plugs and the 200's having 5. are you saying some 200's had 3 freeze plugs?
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Post Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:10 pm 
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purf_man
Senior Member


Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 151
Location: Dayton TN

some of the EARLY 1964 200's had 3 frost plugs (I think there was a 200 offeredin 1963 also?) basicly I just stay away from the 3 frost plug motors (they are the 4 main motors)

there was even a late 170 in the mavericks but I think it might be a 3 plug motor (never seen one myself)

if you are thinking of building a six there is a guy in Idaho I think that sells a engine guide for them (casting numbers and such)

myself I am about ready to give up the 200 line of engines....going to aussie inline sixes (alloy heads based off a clevland, crossflow design, factory EFI) only kicker is they are different from US motors (loosly based on a US 250 though) BUT you can adapt the head to a US block which I am going to do first (it bolts on...just have to add a little material along th elifter cavity and relocation some coolant holes)

Post Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:35 pm 
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