Fairlane Owners/Enthusiasts Forum Index
  The time now is Thu Mar 28, 2024 3:44 am   

Fairlane Owners/Enthusiasts Forum Index -> FairlaneTech

1967 Fairlane overheating (non A/C car)

  Author    Thread Post new topic Reply to topic
Purkey
Junior Member


Joined: 09 Jun 2008
Posts: 45
1967 Fairlane overheating (non A/C car)

I believe my 1967 Fairlane tends to run hot since the engine swap I performed and before I sink a couple of hundred into an electric fan or a fan shroud I was going to troubleshoot the cooling. When I was driving it before the swap it did not overheat; I went from a 2 bbl 289 to a 4 bbl 302. The radiator I have is ~ 20 years old (less than 5K miles on it and I do not believe it has obstructions in it since it flowed well when I was flushing it upon removal) and is listed as a 289/302 radiator; it is a non A/C car therefore it did not come with a shroud. Unfortunately, I do not have temperature gauges installed; only idiot lights (that I do not know if they work properly). The car runs fine until it is driven for any length of time (i.e. gets hot). We took it out for a Sunday drive yesterday and it ran fine at speed but when we drove through some neighborhoods it started to bog down, eventually quitting whenever we came to a stop; when initially driven at slow speeds it does not do this which leads me to believe it is an overheating problem. The car fires up immediately in most cases. I thought it might be fuel delivery related but I upgraded to Russell Performance fuel lines/filter after I noticed that at pressure the original hoses were seeping fuel in various places. I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the carb (Edelbrock) and it is getting around 4-5 psi.

First I was going to replace the thermostat and see if that is what is causing the overheating (this was a new part installed during the engine swap). After this, would y’all have a recommendation on where to go to next in order to mitigate extra costs of swapping out good parts? If you guys recommend adding a shroud, who makes these as a retrofit? I would prefer to stay away from electric fans since this would take away from the engine compartment’s look (by no means a concourse level car but in keeping with the time period). I don’t take the car out as much as I would like (overheating problems) but when I do it is driven to work maybe once every two weeks in stop and go traffic.

Post Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:35 am 
 View user's profile Send private message  Reply with quote  
GerryProctor
Senior Member


Joined: 10 Mar 2006
Posts: 660
Location: San Antonio, Tx

Make sure your ignition timing is sufficiently advanced. Shoot for around 12-14 degrees initial. You could also be running too lean on your main circuit. Make sure the fan belt is tight.

Parts are not the solution at this point. Thermostat failure would also occur at low speed.

If it wasn't overheating with the 289, it shouldn't with the 302 if everything is up to snuff.

Post Tue May 01, 2012 3:15 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message  Reply with quote  
roger
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1008
Location: ontario, canada
overheating

I;d be installing a Temp. gauge to see what its running at, i know in traffic, like bad traffic my 347 will climb to almost 200 degrees, feels/smells like its overheating, but, 200 is not really that hot.
without a gauge tho, i'd THINK it was overheating.
I did install a shroud, which dropped temp. about 15-20 degrees at idle in heavy traffic, which, i wouldn;t know without a gauge!
_________________
roger powell

Post Thu May 03, 2012 12:27 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail  Reply with quote  
Scott66gta
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 286
Location: syracuse, NY
check out...

Woody's main page and read the entries by Mike the Radiator man... It is a wealth of info...

http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/miketechtips.html

Overheating at slow speeds are almost always an airflow issue, although it could be a coolant flow deal also... Do you have the correct water pump? later 302's had reverse rotation water pumps... What fan are you running? get a good clutchfan... ditch the flex fan it you're using one... A shroud is almost a must.. Make sure the rubber hood to rad support is there... It helps maintin the pressure difference before and after the radiator... As said above, make sure your gage is reading correctly.
if it is bogging down, it could also mean fuel vapor lock...

Post Thu May 03, 2012 12:53 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website AIM Address  Reply with quote  
Purkey
Junior Member


Joined: 09 Jun 2008
Posts: 45

After I posted the question, I found the "Mike the Radiator" sessions. I should of read further before posting. Anyway, we took it out today after I bumped the initial timing up a few degrees, it ran with a noticable miss/hesitation/???? In a parking lot I bumped it back down (matching up the sharpie line I drew prior to bumping it up). Still ran with a slight "miss/hesistation". Got home and removed the vacuum advance line & plugged all ports between the two. Went back on the road, ran very well without the "misses/hesistations". I don't think it is a bad line (it was replaced during the rebuild but who knows); I am thinking it might be the distributor. When we first installed the distributor (Mallory) in 2008 and set the timing it was pulling ~ 38 degrees at WOT and Neutral; a Mallory tech told me to rotate the setscrew to set the maximum timing, I don't think it was done properly. I think I will just live with my "homemade mechanical advance only" distributor for now and enjoy the drives.

On to the "overheating", I am running a stock 4 blade fan with no shroud. I found a 5 blade fan and shroud on Dearborn Classics that I would like to upgrade to. Has anyone swapped to a 5 blade fan and made a difference? I agree the shroud would be the best bang for the buck though. Has anyone bought a shroud from D.C. and installed on a non-A/C car? Is there anything different between the two other than the A/C system?

The heat in the engine compartment is a lot (even without a gauge); the air cleaner is hot to the touch along with anyother metal that is under the hood.
Thanks for all of the suggestions,

Post Sat May 05, 2012 6:40 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message  Reply with quote  
Purkey
Junior Member


Joined: 09 Jun 2008
Posts: 45

OK so I broke down and took my 67 to a mechanic to diagnose what I thought was overheating issues. Turns out I had the following problems:
1. Summit told me to install a resistor to the mallory ignition that I installed. Result: only 3v to the coil. Removed the resistor.
2. Once the resistor was removed, I only had 4 volts to the coil. Solution: the mechanic rerouted the hot wire properly. I now have 9 volts to the coil.

Since he worked on the car (2 hours= $120!) I have now driven the car over 700 miles in 4 weeks (only driven 300 miles since 2008 when I finished the engine swap). Needless to say, since it does not stop at stop lights, I drive it whenever it is sunny. Best $120 I spent since I originally bought the car for $500 in 1990.

Thanks for everyone's help in fixing my self induced problems.

Post Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:53 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message  Reply with quote  
  Display posts from previous:      
Post new topic Reply to topic

Jump to:  


Last Thread | Next Thread  >

Forum Rules:
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

 

Powered by phpBB © 2001 phpBB Group
phpXP2 Template by Vereor.

This theme is to be used only for the promotion of Windows(TM) XP and its associated products. - Read the full disclaimer
I, the developer, take no responsibility for use of this theme against the wishes of Microsoft(R).

Create your own free forum now!
Terms of Service Purchase Ad Removal Forum Archive Report Abuse