Yes, the radiator is actually boiling over so it is not just a gauge giving a false reading. Changed radiator caps with no change in the problems. I have been running straight water in it for a while due to the boil over and cost of replacing the antifreeze every time I drive it. Heater core isn't plugged. I can tell this because I use it to help the car cool down and it blows HOT air. The gauge is the factory gauge but like I said above, as it reads hot the engine does boil over so it is telling me what is happeneing. I think that while I have the brake system torn down for the swap to front discs I will also tear down the cooling system and see what I can find. Since I have replaced everything I don't know what I can be missing.

Yes, the radiator is actually boiling over so it is not just a gauge giving a false reading. Changed radiator caps with no change in the problems. I have been running straight water in it for a while due to the boil over and cost of replacing the antifreeze every time I drive it. Heater core isn't plugged. I can tell this because I use it to help the car cool down and it blows HOT air. The gauge is the factory gauge but like I said above, as it reads hot the engine does boil over so it is telling me what is happeneing. I think that while I have the brake system torn down for the swap to front discs I will also tear down the cooling system and see what I can find. Since I have replaced everything I don't know what I can be missing.

Doe sit over heat while you drive? If the rad has been rodded out or replaced and the thermostat is not sticking. My bet is the bottom hose is collapsing.

Yea buddy that bottom hose will starve the motor of coolant.

There is not any known problems to the engine overheating other than cooling system problems.

I have driven a rebuild that was bored .060 over over 100,000 miles.

A fellow on another site has one that was driven 70,000 miles before I sold it to him and its .030

Do you have the old style wat4r pump or a new style water pump. the new style can be purchased to rotate either way. and the parts people being young and dumb dont have a fricken clue!


So the person that told you this motor has those problems is full of chit!
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Defending the 1st amendment with the 2nd amendment.

.......and also, you should be able to remove the cap after the engine
is warmed up, (thermostat open) , but not boiling hot yet, and see the coolant / water flowing in the radiator. It should be visibly moving and flowing thru the flues, unless the radiator has been overfilled. (see bottom paragraph) I have seen NEW thermostats stick and cause an overheat. They should always be opened by hand to check for sticking before installation. Please do not use a 195* t-stat where the original one was 180 degree, and be sure the rad. cap is correct.

If you have the original type system without recovery tank, just remember, you can not fill the radiator full to the very top. Only about 1 inch from the top,
( to allow for expansion as the coolant / water warms up ), otherwise , it will belch out the excess water when the engine warms up, thus looking like an over-heat problem while the system may actually be operating properly.
Does it look as if anyone ever changed the head gaskets on this engine ?


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I got a 5 bolt bell manual transmission setup out of a 62 I would let go cheap....just saying
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1962 Fairlane- 250" aussie inline six cleveland, T5, hydroboost disc brakes, power steering, EFI....the list goes on.

Well, I finally found the overheating problem! The brand new thermostat was sticking. Once that was swapped out it is fine! Now I have purchased a new engine that I am getting ready to start a build on. I will pull the original engine and set it off to the side so I can beat it without worrying. Do you still have the trans Purf_man? Send me a PM if you do. Thanks.