hello
iam trying to get my fairlane running i set the timing with the #1 cylender at TDC i have spark the only problem i see is that the compersion is only at 90 pounds and appox 100 when i put some oil in the cylinders.
My main ? is maybe i messed up when i adjusted the valves, i took them down so there was no play on the push rod than another 3/4 of a turn i am thinking it might have been to much and maybe i bent some valves but that is what my book told me
Any info whould be greatly appreciated.also the car is a convertable and where the wires in the engine compartment bolt together for the convertable top power supply line ,by the shock tower there is a small block or maybe a fuze link not shure what to call it but when i took it apart it just broke in my hands and not shure 1 what it is called or 2 where i might get it any info on that whould be appreciated also
Thanks

The engine will run at 90spi cranking compression. It won't be a strong runner, but it will run...assuming no other mechanical defects.

A better way for a novice to set hyrdaulic preload is: Use a .002 feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem tip. Turn down the lash until you can feel a very slight drag on the feeler gauge, then turn the preload down to your 3/4 turn. Doing the spinning method is subject to error if you don't have a great feel for when you are at zero preload since you could be well into preload before you feel the drag on the pushrod. If there is no oil in the lifter,the pushrod will spin freely until it hits the bottom of it's travel.

As for your diagnostics; On the compression pressure check did you have the throttle wide open, all plugs out, a good cranking speed and at least three compression cycles?

Are you sure your ignition timing is properly set?

You don't offer any clues to what the problem is other than your cranking compression test so it's hard to say what might be going on. Also, was it running before you started to work on it and what did you do to change things?

hello
thanks for the responce and i will try to let you know yes when i did the compression check i had the pulgs out and held the throttle wide open and cranked the engine till the compression gauge stoped climbing, the timing should be right / timing chain lined up checked that and made shure it was at TDC on the #1 cylinder when i replace it / the timing markes on the damper line up TDC and the rotor is pointing ant the #1 wire on the dist cap.
When i bought the car it did run i drove it into my garage and all i did with the engine is replace the head gaskets / timing chain / oil pump / and rear main seal because the car was sitting for many years , but there is spark at the plugs and it wants to fire up but it is real ruff and it does not last long then there is nothing .
Now with the valve i came across an old motors service manual and i re did the valves but left them alittle loose but not alot this time i figure i can go back if they tap and tighten them .
Anothe ? i had to replace the fuel pump so i went to my near by parts store and bought a fuel pump but it would not fit it was for the 289 then when i matched it up with the old one it did not look the same so i found one on e-bay but the pump is for a 221 / 260 / 289 / 302 / or 351 it is a short bodied pump what do i have here .
Thanks for you hel

Check for a vacuum leak, that you have the plug wires properly sequenced, that your initial ignition timing is correct, and that you have proper carburetor function. It is probably something simple in your settings and I'd be looking at your plug wires or the initial timing. I can't say on the fuel pump since I can't see your old one or the new one, though it's hard to believe the parts store could screw that up.

OK, Imaout, you have not been
clear on setting your TDC on the ( compression ) stroke when aligning your rotor to the number 1 plug wire .

Pull #1 spark plug and slowly crank , or bump, the engine over with your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. When the piston gets to the point that it tries to blow your thumb off the hole, THEN check your timing mark on the balancer , that it's lined up with the pointer - it should be almost right on your timing mark at that point. Now, wherever your rotor is pointing, that should be your # 1 plug. Firing order rotation will be counter-clockwise 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 if it's a 289 engine.
Some engines, and I'm pretty sure the small block Ford is one of them, will have #1 cylinder on the exhaust stroke when you line up your timing marks on the timing gears. {If you were going by this,} then I think you may be 180 degrees out with your rotor / dist cap position. I know it may not sound right, but I'm almost positive about that on small block Fords.
You can't go wrong with the old finger over #1 spark plug hole routine. Remember, too, that number one cylinder is on the passenger side, front on 289 Ford engines. Hope this helps.
_________________


Last edited by outlawcaveman on Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:15 pm; edited 1 time in total

thanks outlaw
pulled the # 1 plug and put my thumb over the hole and bumped the engine over with a remote starter and just when i felt my thumb being blownoff the hole i stoped and looked at the balancer and it was not even on any of the markes then i hit the remote starter again and my thumb blew off the hole and looked at the marks on the balancer again was alittle closer but still at about 12 degrees and the rotor is amost pointing at the # 8 plug wire in the cap also on mine the #1 cylender is in the front on the passangers side hey thanks for the advice

its been awhile but I figure I would get back on here I have it running and it runs great .
thanks everybody for your help