Those mechanics are ASC certified mechanics.....still (for Ford dealerships and one Mopar guy). One of them has a low 8 second '64 Falcon, another is the chassis man (well, he's probably not certified anymore) that built the Falcon. 90% of the time these guys give me an answer, they're right, I have no reason to doubt them. The tranny deal, I've asked every tranny guy I've dealt with and that's not just in my own town, that's over several states.

Like you, I was stating what I heard and it's been my experience if you ask a couple dozen people that don't know each other the same question and you get back pretty much the same answer, either they're all correct or they're all full of crap. I've only heard your version from you.... Doesn't mean I'm right and your wrong, but it also doesn't mean I'm full of crap, although you're inclined to think so as is your right, as I am of you, let's just leave it at that. You're the one starting out with the little jabs at myself and LilMike....
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Larry Hampton
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'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Hey 63tbolt, how about posting or emailing me some pictures?

Larry
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Larry Hampton
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'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Synthetic is still dino oil, it just goes through more processing.

Read: http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

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Originally posted by Kyle:
Read: http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

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quote:

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Originally posted by Kyle:
Read: http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

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I'll keep an eye out for your results. I drive an '04 Quad Cab 4x4 with the 5.7 Hemi, and usually I get right at 14 mpg, it has 29,600 miles.
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1967 Fairlane 500, 302 V8, Toploader transmission. Maybe I'll eventually get it on the road.

I think many of us are waring over which type is best while missing the real jest of the question. This car is a 427 side oiler "flat tappet solid lifters" these cams require additives to break-in and continue to perserve the life of the lifters and cam lobes that are not found in most synthetic oils and only some dino-oil. You might want to look at a study done by Bob Mannel about 6-8 months ago in the Fairlaner Magazine about the importance of these additives to solid lifter antique high performance engines.
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64 Sport Coupe 427 2x4 4speed
White knuckles ride for an old fart.

After 1 week of the full synthetic oil I have seen no improvement what so ever. Milage is the same, the engine still gets up to running temp in the same time frame and I see no difference. Maybe it will get better next week.

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Originally posted by rdloghome:

quote:

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Originally posted by Kyle:
Read: http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

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I'm volunteering to be a guniepig. I have a Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab 4 x 4 with the 4.7 L V8 and have 71,000 miles on it. I drive it normal to easy because of high gas prices. The on board computer says I'm getting on average 12.6 for the past week. After reading the article I went out and bought 6 quarts of full synthetic oil and a new filter. I will change over to full synthetic and drive it for another week and see what the computer says. Stay tuned for an update. I hope this works because 12.6 is awful!!!

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There is a good article in the June issue of Hot Rod Magazine about how oil manufacturers have reduced the amount of phosphorous and zinc additive (ZDDP) in todays petrolium based oil which flat-tappet cams need for proper lubrication. Because of this there has been a drastic increase of solid lifter cam failures noted by several professional engine builders. The article goes on to say that New automobile manufacturers dictate oil composition due to OEM's huge production volumes. So since all current pushrod engines use roller tappets, the amount of additive that solid lifters need to be properly lubricated has been reduced in an attempt to reduce emissions. I have a solid lifter cam in my 428 and I put in a bottle of GM E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant in with the petrolium based oil that I use and that puts the antiwear additive back in the oil that the solid lifters need to survive. Full synthetic oils are far better than current petrolium based oils because they have all the necessary antiwear additives and friction modifiers in them to keep perfarmance engines alive. I use the E.O.S. additive with a petrolium based oil for the cost factor. Also there is one petrolium based oil that still has the ZDDP additives in it and that is Rotella-T. Normally this is used in diesel engines but I have read that there is no reason that you can't use this in your gasoline fueled engine especially with a flat tappet cam.
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'68 Fairlane 500 sportroof, 428CJ, close ratio toploader, 9" detroit locker, 31 spline axles, 3.50 gears.