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It's That much closer!
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1320lane
Senior Member


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 270
Location: Central Oklahoma

Awww.... you found me Kyle. Wink

As I recall, Scott was (and I don't want to speak for him) going to fit them into the window tracks so he could use the regulators.
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Larry Hampton
______________________________________________

'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Post Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:05 pm 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

Close there Larry!

Wichita will be the track of choice. It is 45 minutes from the house.
Great Bend track would be second, 1 hour and 10 minutes, then Ark City, 1 3/4 hour (approx). Anywhere but the salvage yard!

We used to race Motocross down near Ark City. It seemed like a long drive!

I am mounting the Lexan inside the factory window tracks (the vent windows are eliminated) but without the window regulators. The doors and quarters have nice slotted holes to bolt the windows to at the bottom of them once the rattles strips (fuzzies) were removed.

The rear glass will be MR10 in the factory gasket. I may have to fabricate aluminum retaining tabs to go down along the sides of the rear window (attached to the rear sail panels). I am not sure yet. The Lexan is 1/8", but the factory back glass is approx. 3/16" thick. I will see how it mounts up.

The front windshield I am not sure of yet. Once I make the rear glass and see how flexable it is, I would like to mount the windshield in the factory gasket as well. It most likely will require some retaining tabs. If I do not like how the rear glass fits (tight / loose), or if it is too stiff to make the tight turns at the ends, I will revisit installing a stock glass windshield.

I am trying to avoid the obvious "bolted in" appearance of most cars I see.

If I get a chance, I will try to get some updated photos of the glass & tin work completed so far. It is nothing fancy. I do not own or have easy access to a metal brake or bead roller. It is all flatwork. It does look pretty good overall though.

PS Larry: you don't need to be independently wealthy to come up and help. Hell just bring me all you got and we will call it good!
_________________
Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:56 pm 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

quote:
Originally posted by Arky:
Whats the numbers for the wilwood front brakes? change bearing? nice!!


John, Check your PM box.
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Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:21 pm 
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1320lane
Senior Member


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 270
Location: Central Oklahoma

Scott, The front lexan will make that curve.

As I recall, the rear glass doesn't have moulding like most cars, it has a SS strip in the middle of the gasket, but the front windshield does have moulding that covers most of the gasket.

In the past, I've used LDPE (like the white cutting boards) to make a spacer strip that bolts to the pinch weld. Then sanded it down (which is tougher now that it's already painted) so the cut window fits flush, or in the case of using the trim, sits under the moulding. Then the window is drilled thru the LDPE and the LDPE removed so Rivnuts can be set in the pinch weld then it's all reassembled using button heads and the moulding laid on top.
_________________
Larry Hampton
______________________________________________

'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Post Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:09 am 
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IceLane
Senior Member


Joined: 01 Mar 2008
Posts: 114
Location: Independence Twp, MI

Hmm.. for some reason I thought that lexan windshields didn't meet the track safety requirements around me. Doublechecked and I found a new way to reduce front end weight!

Keep posting up pictures of the build, Scott. You're doing a number of things that I'm planning on myself!

Larry,

I like that solution to installing the lexan windows. I'd bet it looks pretty clean all said and done!
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Kyle Lehrmann

Post Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:36 am 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

Larry,
I will have to look again but the front window trim I believe is roughy like the rear trim as you described it. I believe (would have to see one to be sure) that the wider front trim is for the hard tops. I could be wrong. I will look Sunday.

I considered the LDPE route as well. I have a rather large section of a similar material (like 8' x 8' piece) that was removed from a silage trailer floor. it is roughly 3/8" thick. It is supposed to be a lifetime floor, but a hole was worn through it in a spot.

If I can not make the Lexan work in the stock gasket, I plan to revisit this idea. I just wanted to avoid the "bolt in" look at first glance.
_________________
Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Sun Aug 23, 2009 1:52 am 
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1320lane
Senior Member


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 270
Location: Central Oklahoma

We cut the LDPE with a table saw. I did this work at my chassis guy's shop, the guy who built Roger's red Falcon.

Roger had the Falcon at the Shelby meet, won fastest door car, but's it's only running 9.0's now. i don't know why.
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Larry Hampton
______________________________________________

'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Post Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:47 pm 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

Well today I finished installing the rear quarter windows, cut out the rear window, and installed it using the stock rubber gasket.

It went well, only issue is that the Lexan is 1/8" thick instead of the factory windows 3/16". This made the window slightly loose in the gasket. I installed the window in the gasket & in the car without any sealer.

My wife kept saying "This is going to leak!". I had a hard time convincing her that this is a drag car. It will not see rain. If it should rain while at the track or on the trailer, I plan to use a car cover at that time. It will not leak since there will not be anything to force the water through the gasket!

I also finished installing the quarter window trim and all of the aluminum panels in the rear part of the car. All that is left is to make a pattern for the door glass. I am eliminating the wing windows. Then cut out and mount the door windows and make the aluminum door panels and install them.

I can not do this until I get the outside door handles back from the powder coater and install them.

Then decide what I am going to do about a windshield, mount and wire the MSD Digital 6 box, wire it up, mount the shifter, wire up the line lock & neutral switch, mount & wire the tach, and then install the custom gauges that I mounted in the stock bezel. There are a few small touch up items stll left, then I will get some fiberglass bumpers and maybe the hood this winter.

We are really swamped at work in the machine shop, so my parts (heads) have been kicked to the curb for now. But once I get the little things done above, I will be focusing on the engine.

My wife gave the memory card out of the camera to her mother, so once I get that back I will update this with some new pictures.
_________________
Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:50 pm 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

Larry,

I looked at the front windshield trim and I was right, it is thin, just like the rear window.

Did you ever get any roof bows for your headiner? Your car is a 63 sedan correct?

If you still need them, I can send you mine, I am not installing a headliner. I have the bows and the side cleat strips. I do not have the springs that hold the rear bow to the roof (over the back glass). They broke off when I tried to squeeze them together to remove them. The springs were brittle and they snapped.
_________________
Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:55 pm 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

Here is some photos of the progress made to date.

I ran out of Lexan. All I have left to do is the passenger door and set the windshield.

I fabricated some aluminum tabs that slide inside the window track that wedge the Lexan up tight. I wanted to avoid any screws or rivets in the glass but the 1/8" Lexan was loose.

Overall, the windows and tin work doesn't look too bad.

I am still waiting on door handles so I can finish up the Lexan & door panels.

Then back to some minor wiring to touch up on and then drive train!



















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_________________
Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:58 pm 
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1320lane
Senior Member


Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 270
Location: Central Oklahoma

I got the bows and the little springs, but I don't have the sawtooth pieces for the sides, those would be great.

I'm sooooooo jealous of the progress on your car, mine has done nothing but sit. I'm almost done on the room addition, but then I have to reroof the house. I need to build a shop, or sell my house and buy one with a shop already. If I build a shop, I can't make up my mind on a size and a location.

I've got a great 40x60 designed for a corner of the yard and a nice 30x40 that would attach to the house on the other side of my garage. The 40x60 has a paint booth/washdown bay and a woodshop with parts storage and an apartment above those while the rest of the shop is two stories open with a place for a lift.

The 30x40 is a 3 bays setup, the bay closest to the house has a 12' wide door with a lift, the middle bay has 12 wide doors both front and back for a pull thru and the last bay has no doors, it's the bench/toolbox/fab area. The middle bay and end bay have a storage deck above with access for moving stuff via a platfrom that fits on the lift (there is a stair as well).

For now the one side of my two car will have to work, but that means only the Fairlane or the Mustang can occupy it, and I really need two bays.
_________________
Larry Hampton
______________________________________________

'63 Fairlane 2-dr post. Race car since at least '67. In the process of turning it into a proto-clone Nostalgia Super Stock car with FE power and three pedals.

Post Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:08 am 
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mygirls63
Senior Member


Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 416
Location: Kansas

I wish I had the room for a bigger building.

20 x 30 fills up fast! You can see how much s*#t I have piled up around my shop!
My shop is 11 years old, is showing it's age and needs repainted bad. Maybe next year I can get to a point I can repair some sheet rock and repaint the building.
I willl see if I can get those pieces shipped to you sometime.
_________________
Scott
1963 Fairlane Mini tub 10pt cage New 408" C4 Canfield 195CC heads Comp solid roller Victor Jr. 9" w/4.11? gears Moser spool & 35 spline axles. www.marksullense85carburetors.com

Post Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:43 am 
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